By Kevin Pozzi

Located off of Foster Road in the Lents neighborhood of outer southeast Portland, Zenger Farm sits almost dormant on a cloudy, chilly February afternoon. The sixteen-acre urban farm and protected wetland remains quiet save for a few clucking hens and a volunteer diligently pruning a row of Italian plum trees.

“We are here to help plants and animals express their true nature!” Zenger Farm Development Director Laleña Dolby explains, referencing a similar mantra from farmer, author, and activist Joel Salatin. “Our job is not to be in control as is often the case with conventional agriculture, but rather to observe and work with our natural systems.”

Incorporated as a nonprofit in 1999, Friends of Zenger Farm holds as its mission a dedication to ‘promoting sustainable food systems, environmental stewardship and local economic development through a working urban farm.’ Prior to its incorporation, the property was a century-old family farm passed through multiple owners until the City of Portland purchased the land in the mid 1990’s.

Now on a 50-year lease from the City, Zenger Farm hosts summer camps, farm field trips, and workshops on topics like healthy eating, composting, beekeeping, preserving food, and garden planning. The organization incorporates both sustainability and food access into their work, utilizing solar power and water cisterns to keep power and water usage low, while also founding the nearby Lents International Farmer’s Market in an effort to see that healthy food reaches those who need it most.

“Zenger Farm is really trying to be a model nationwide for our work, but at the same time, wants to make sure we are serving our population here in the Lents neighborhood.”

Much of the work on the farm is accomplished by volunteers, with a few hundred estimated to contribute their talents each year. Beyond these tangible and local effects, the organization hopes the broader impact of their work will shine through.

“I think the role of a place like Zenger Farm is to offer the opportunity to do something different, to do it more creatively, to add a certain spark,” she explains, taking back the knowledge she’s heard from lifelong farmers who may not be aware of new methods. “As a nonprofit, we are afforded opportunities through grant money that farmers may not be able to because of limited resources.”

A Local Farmer, Activist, and Development Director

Growing up on a fruit tree rootstock nursery near Gaston, Dolby has long held an interest in the origins of food and its’ importance to the community. Her parents, first-generation “back to the land” farmers who originated from California, never put pressure on her to take over the reins of the farm as she grew up.

Dolby later recalls working with fellow sustainable agriculture activist Zoe Bradbury who once quipped that ‘you can take the girl off the farm, but at some point, you have to put her back.’

She nods and agrees with that sentiment. Now heeding that call, Dolby decided to give it a shot on her parent’s farm, working there about two days a week.

“All of that stuff I grew up with, it was buried down deep somewhere inside of me.”

That passion inspired Dolby to launch a career advocating for farming issues, working in the Food and Farms program at EcoTrust, participating in the Slow Food movement, and writing as a columnist for Edible Portland. She has also taken farm business management classes at Chemeketa Community College in Salem.

“Working at EcoTrust while also taking classes on farm business management at Chemeketa—bridging the urban/rural, farm/city divide—it was one of the hardest and most rewarding times of my life,” she explains. “Having my foot in both worlds, I found myself defending farmers in front of my city friends and vice versa.”

Now at Zenger Farm for over a year, Dolby reflects on her position and the impact she hopes the organization will have on the community.

“I never really thought of myself as a Development Director, though it is truly touching to come down from my office and have children say to me, ‘Did you know that potatoes come out of the dirt?!’” Dolby says with a smile.  “It’s a wonderful feeling to realize that these kids will come home with this information, sharing these experiences with their family over dinner.”

While a down economy hasn’t made it easy for both the organization and its neighborhood recipients, Dolby is confident that the hardship has ended up bringing the community together.

“Coming on board in this position, it was both an unfortunate time because of tight funding, but it was also a great opportunity for people to prioritize what is really important to them—eating, community, and feeding our families,” she explained. “After almost seven years of working on farming and food policy, I had a moment recently where I said to myself, ‘Yes! This is exactly what I want to be doing with my life.”

The Future of Farming

With the current debate over agricultural subsidies, a smaller if noticeable renaissance of younger organic farmers, and the looming, potential threat of global warming for crops, what does the future hold for farming?

“It seems to me that in the future, each of us is going to come at farming and food issues from many different angles,” Dolby explained.

It is through this piecemeal approach that more people will eventually have healthy food access, and a basic understanding of farming issues.

“I hope more places pop up like Zenger Farm—opportunities that can help youth see what is possible for them in this area,” she says, highlighting the alarmingly high average age of farmers. “It took me quite awhile to return to the family farm. Yet even though most people coming through here won’t end up becoming a farmer, at least they will have gained an appreciation and awareness of where their food comes from.”