05/17/02
By Kristi Ellis
Fairchild Publications
WASHINGTON -- Vowing to embarrass Gap Inc., several House lawmakers
joined with UNITE on Thursday in calling for the company to improve its
working conditions at contractors that sew its labels abroad.
Rep. Nydia Velazquez (D., N.Y.) said at a Capitol Hill press conference
that she would introduce legislation aimed at forcing apparel companies
to disclose where they make their clothing and the conditions under which
they are made. Velazquez, along with other House lawmakers, also released
a copy of a letter they plan to send to Millard S. Drexler, president and
chief executive officer of Gap. Dubbed "The Garment Consumer's Right to
Know Act of 2002," the legislation would require manufacturers to collect,
maintain and disclose information regarding where, by whom and under what
conditions their products were made, including products made in whole or
in part by contractors or subcontractors in the U.S. and abroad. It will
also enable employees to bring legal action for violations and entitle
them to compensation.
UNITE, which is working with labor unions and worker rights organizations
in Lesotho and Central America to highlight the alleged plight of workers
in Gap contracting facilities, aired a videotape with interviews of a Lesotho
woman and a plant manager who allegedly stabbed her with a pair of scissors
at the end of March, and repeated its call for Gap executives to take responsibility.
The garment worker's union has taken its campaign from New York in February
to Gap's annual meeting in Albuquerque, N.M., last week to Capitol Hill.
Steve Weingarten, director of industrial relations at UNITE, said getting
Gap to disclose its contractors is a key goal of the union.
In their letter to Drexler, 11 House lawmakers, including Jan Schakowsky
(D., Ill.), Sherrod Brown (D., Ohio), Hilda Solis (D., Calif.) and Velazquez,
called on Gap to take immediate action to improve working conditions, pay
living wages and ensure the right to organize.
Refuting the charges, a Gap spokeswoman said in a phone interview that
the San Francisco-based company has been working "vigorously" on the issues,
more recently with factory management in Lesotho, but also in El Salvador
and Guatemala. She said Gap's senior director of global compliance has
met with the victim in Lesotho, as well as with managers at the Nien Hsing
factory, and Gap is awaiting the outcome of a criminal investigation of
the incident.
"We have taken a number of steps and made recommendations with the vendor,"
she said. "We suggested the managing director, who said [the stabbing]
was not intentional, should be removed and we also identified a local mediator
who should be brought in to improve the relationship between management
and employees."
She noted that if a factory does not comply with Gap's global compliance
program, the company will terminate business at that factory. The retailer
has a staff of 90 compliance officers whose job it is to ensure that the
3,600 factories in 50 countries that produce Gap goods obey its code of
vendor conduct.
She said: "It is very frustrating to be singled out," and added that
"achieving significant progress in factory workplaces ought to be an industrywide
effort."
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